Preparations on arrival in Kunming

In search of a quality used bike I headed to Xiong Brothers bike shop on Beijing Mie near O'Reillys Irish pub, two subway stations from Dong Feng Square.

At 9.30am not a lot was open so I asked around for another bike shop and was directed further down Beijing Mie, turning left at the large intersection and finding old man Hu's bike store three blocks from the lights.

Now that's a bargain, a  27" sturdy used road bike with 21 gears, a firm seat and new  tyres for ¥500. Hu's offsider changed the rear wheel for me, fixing me with an excellent bike to explore Yunnan. Prepared for a ride I packed a pannier, helmet and lock in my bag before departing Sydney. 

                                   

                                            Old Man Hu carefully supervises my bike being prepared for sale

          

Kunming to Chengjiang

Starting on Tuodong Rd, outside the Da Zhen Hotel, and continuing with the morning commute of slow and safe paced motorbikes, the December Kunming sunrise, like the sleepy traffic, rises at a comfortable and civilised 7.00am.

A mostly flat road, passing through Guandu Village, with a designated cycle path Chengjiang sits about 60kms from Dong Feng Square. Effectively an extension of the urban area, Chengjiang is a developed metropolis that sits on the outskirts of Kunming.

Chengjiang is planted on the valley trough, offering a magnificent downhill approach when travelling from Kunming.

Chengjiang City to Tonghai

An early morning start from Chengjiang, I followed the western edge of Fuxian Lake on the Chengchuan Line for about 20 mostly flat kilometres.

Connecting on to the S214 at the village of Jiangchengzhen, the hills pick up as the old highway meanders inland, but it is still easy riding.

Tonghai's grand city mosque with two minarets towers above the neighbouring constructions.

A steep rise 20km from Tonghai, rising to 2km, cements a sense of reward on arrival as you roll in to the modern and welcoming agricultural city. 

Village to village to Jianshui

From Tonghai to Jianshui the road heads south through fertile cropping regions supporting numerous villages through agriculture, manufacturing, energy production, infrastructure development and tourism.

Traditional horse and cart becomes obsolete as battery powered vehicles dominate the local roads.

A lengthy rise starts 45km from Jianshui. It's not disabling and the distance between the two cities is less than 80km for the day.

Jianshui - Step back in time

The 20km drop into the city of Jianshui, at 1300 metres above sea level, marks the beginning of the lengthy steep descent to the city of Yuanyang.

Jianshui is stamped with remnant Chinese architecture in and throughout the surrounding villages. I took a day cycle to Shi Ping, witnessing traditional lifestyles embedded in the modern economy.

A few days in Jianshui offers a deep view into the magnificent dynastic past, stunning architectural detail, and the opportunity to try delicious local dishes. Having rested, it was soon onwards and downwards to Yuanyang.

UP then DOWN Down to Yuanyang

Climbing from Jianshui, at 1300m, to the crest of the range at 1940m, in a head wind is not easy. Still on the S214 the rises continue for 35km - at which point a bamboo forest is reached and a small isolated village sits on steep winding bends on the road. Passing through the village the bamboo forest continues. Essential for the 40km slip to Yuanyang is good brakes.

                                        A new bridge crossing over the Red River.

The Yuanyang Rice Terraces

Laomengxian Village Rice Terraces. Still on the S214, the road climbs a smooth 1km for every km travelled. The 35km trip to Yuanyang Old City is well worth it. Many of the road surfaces are somewhat rubbled however the sights from the dozen or so villages that rest on the mountain are jaw dropping.

Days can be lost venturing into the venation of villages, markets and farmland steeped in the slopes with vistas that stretch across broad valley contours.

A constant climb from Yuanyang New City, the UNESCO Heritage listed Yuanyang Old City rice terraces are so vast the water that puddles and evaporates contributes to local weather patterns.    

Yuanyang to Hekou

Leaving Yuanyang New City at 7am and following the X102, the old road hugs the Red River banks to Vietnam. The road merges into the G326 at Xinhe, which leads straight to Hekou (pronounced 'Hoo-Cow - I always thought it was Moo-Cow). There is no great historical site or modern city on the way, time was on my side, and the road contours are somewhat friendly so I fanged it all the way, covering 160kms in one day. 

                      

                               A freeway development on the south side of the Red River.

Zotye, WEY, Leopaard, and this Fencon, are modelled on Porsche - some of the numerous duplicates of Chinese manufacturing sold to local buyers. A Police passport check 30km and 10km before reaching Hekou, like elsewhere, endless security cameras monitoring traffic and pedestrians (collecting facial recognition data).

                                 A loaded bicycle crosses into Lao Cai from Hekou. The End.